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soggy plot

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Messages: 1 - 11 of 11
  • Message 1. 

    Posted by redwineandroses (U13889653) on Monday, 4th October 2010

    Just been given extra land but its really wet,i intend to put five raised beds 12 foot by 4 on it,and i was thinking of digging a chanel under each pathputting membrane down ,then gravel mebrane on the top,a sort of field drain.Anybody out there got any experience of this type of drain, and more importantly does it work? forgot to put i would slope the drains.smiley - erm

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  • Message 2

    , in reply to message 1.

    Posted by Vixxihibiscus (U13865184) on Tuesday, 5th October 2010

    Hi Redwineandroses,

    I too have a soggy plot. In the summer we call it Redwoods Ranch, in the winter it's Redwoods Swamp!

    The Raised beds will help a good deal, mine are just one board high but it makes all the difference. Don't make them too high or it means in the summer it's too dry and things bolt easily.

    Drainage would be great if you have somewhere to drain to (a stream or whatnot) to take the drained water away otherwise it will all end up lying in a large puddle wherever your drains lead.

    I personally just bought a pair of good wellies and revel in getting muddy! I tell myself it's only particularly bad in the winter and there's not really an awful lot to do in the winter!

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  • Message 3

    , in reply to message 2.

    Posted by Ian W (U8604472) on Tuesday, 5th October 2010

    I had a similar problem and solution although it was with my lawn. Where I wanted to put my lawn was really wet. The land is dead flat so no chance of run-off. I dug a deepish sink hole, probably 3ft by 3ft by 3ft deep and filled the bottom 18 inches with coarse gravel and pebbles. I then dug fin drains across the area at about 18 inches deep (flat not sloping) and probably 6ft apart then backfilled with 6 inches of gravel then soil giving me about 12 inches of soil. It works wonderfully well - I assume the water drains from the surrounding earth into the fin drains and eventually finds its way into the ground water via the sump. From memory I dug 2 drains each evening after work so as not to cause myself an injury and it was soon done.

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  • Message 4

    , in reply to message 3.

    Posted by Kleftiwallah (U13700999) on Tuesday, 5th October 2010

    The problem with a gravel filled trench is that eventually soil will fill the gaps between the gravel grains. Better to go the whole hog and install porous pipes and a large soakaway at the lowest end. It will be a big job but the benefit will be great. Cheers,, Tony.

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  • Message 5

    , in reply to message 4.

    Posted by redwineandroses (U13889653) on Wednesday, 6th October 2010

    Thank you to everybody for your replies,i am lucky that the land has a slope that leads to a ditchso the run off is no problem.I will try my original idea but make sure i cover the gravel with plenty of porous membrane to keep the soil out,fingers crossed?smiley - biggrin

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  • Message 6

    , in reply to message 5.

    Posted by Vixxihibiscus (U13865184) on Thursday, 7th October 2010

    Red Wine,

    I would use perforated drainage pipe in the gravel. It will save you money buying so much gravel and will be less likely to block. All the hessian in the world won't be as effective as using the pipe.

    All the best!

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  • Message 7

    , in reply to message 6.

    Posted by redwineandroses (U13889653) on Thursday, 7th October 2010

    Hi vixxi,i thought that you still have to cover the porous pipe with gravel?and you have to buy 50 meters of pipe which is expensive smiley - erm

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  • Message 8

    , in reply to message 7.

    Posted by Vixxihibiscus (U13865184) on Saturday, 9th October 2010

    hmm...that is a lot of pipe...why not try Freecycle?

    I've seen both ways. My OH and I are property developers and we've lived in quite a few houses.

    The gravel works on it's own but regardless of how much hessian you put on top, you will eventually have it become blocked with silt. The spaces for the water to flow are just too small.

    Ideally you need a trench with an inch or so of gravel, then drainage pipe with hessian on top of or even better, wrap the pipe with hessian then backfill with gravel. This will last for tens of years. The gravel only option will last 2-3 at the most before needing redone and the gravel washed.

    I guess it depends how long you plan on using the plot?

    Hope that helps smiley - smiley

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  • Message 9

    , in reply to message 8.

    Posted by margaretstar (U14415248) on Sunday, 10th October 2010

    Personally I wouldn't go to all this trouble on a new plot when you don't actually know it will be necessary. I'd just raise the beds for now.

    It's autumn, there has been a lot of rain recently so maybe your plot
    is uncommonly soggy at the moment. Also when the plot is under cultivation there will be a lot more exposed soil which means more evaporation of moisture.

    I would raise the beds and spend time and some money on improving the soil within the beds: compost and if needed sharp sand to improve the drainage here.

    If the paths between are a good 6-8" lower and sloping to the ditch this may well be enough. On Freecycle you may be able to get e.g. concrete pavers to put on the paths so they are less muddy. Advantage here is is that they are easily relocated.

    Give yourself a growing season to see if anything else is required, hopefully nothing or maybe just some drainage pies and gravel near the ditch.

    My allotment at the moment is exceedingly soggy, but I can grow most things on it, except carrots and parsnips, since it is heavy clay as well.

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  • Message 10

    , in reply to message 9.

    Posted by pinxit (U14558922) on Sunday, 10th October 2010

    If you decide to follow margaretstar's advice and go for raised beds but you still find an area of your plot where water collects, how about planting something that likes wet conditions? If your soil is on the acid side of neutral, blueberies and cranberries love the wet.

    Watercress is growing among the weeds in one of my veg beds after I sprinkled seed produced by watercress in a nearby water trough - and the bed isn't even very wet! (I've taken cuttings of the new watercress to go in a small trough in my greenhouse over winter. I will keep it well watered.)

    Rhubarb can take quite a moist site, and runner beans too, as long as they are not actually standing in water.

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  • Message 11

    , in reply to message 10.

    Posted by Ian W (U8604472) on Sunday, 10th October 2010

    Just one further comment on the gravel option in light of some experts opinions on this board.

    Fin/Field drains made with gravel are very often the method of choice for farmers, highways agencies and numerous other bodies. You don't see them going back every 2 or 3 years to renew them.

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