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Digging hints?
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Message 1.Â
Posted by whatalottie (U9072847) on Tuesday, 4th January 2011
Does anyone have any digging tips please?
These are ones I've picked up.
Don't do too much at a time, Keep the handle near you and take small amounts at one time. Any other hints?
Lottie -
Message 2
Posted by bogus the fungi man (U14705597) on Tuesday, 4th January 2011
I can't use the short handled British tools anymore, my back won't take it. They all have the long shaft like you find everywhere else in the world. Makes a BIG difference. I no longer have to bend down, I can take larger bites and I can dig for longer. My advice is to have the shafts changed! Best thing I ever did.
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Message 3
Posted by Kleftiwallah (U13700999) on Tuesday, 4th January 2011
There is no need to lift the soil to a great height before turning it over, keep it low. Cheers, Tony.
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Message 4
Posted by dirtyrob (U14395261) on Tuesday, 4th January 2011
What, your spade did'nt come with an instuction manual?
Better ask the store for a replacement 
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Message 5
Posted by realfood (U13916672) on Tuesday, 4th January 2011
Remember to use the handle as a lever first and push it down so that the head breaks the ground, and then lift the soil. Makes it so much easier to dig!!
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Message 6
Posted by bogus the fungi man (U14705597) on Tuesday, 4th January 2011
I also find bribing someone younger is an excellent way to get the ground dug
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Message 7
Posted by margaretstar (U14415248) on Tuesday, 4th January 2011
Trouble is I'm amongst the youngest on my allotment!
For a clay soil: use a fork wherever possible, spade only if you need a nice even trench. -
Message 8
Posted by BigDave (U3975543) on Tuesday, 4th January 2011
Best one I know is bit by bit not spit by spit.....
Whatsthemarrow... -
Message 9
Posted by zoomer44 (U14019069) on Tuesday, 4th January 2011
First, what do you want to acheive from digging, is it to aerate the soil and dig in manure/garden compost.
If the area has already been dug previously then forking it over maybe sufficient just to loosen up the soil. In this way manure and compost can be forked into the top layer allowing the worms to draw the compost down into the soil.
If being dug for the first time and you are adding manure /compost consider how big an area do you want to dig. A large area should be split into smaller managable sections. Dig in long straight trenches no wider than your spade, the first trench, is the hardest because this needs to be piled at the top of the section. Fill this trench with a layer of compost/manure leaving sufficient room for a layer of soil to go on top. Your next trench is dug next to it no wider than your spade and each spade full just turned over on top of the other trench with stuff in. Continue this to the end of the section, fill this with more compost and continue until you have turned over and are left with a last trench this is filled with soil from the first.
All sounds like hard work, I'm more your easy gardener and would be inclined to fork over the top layer to loosen it then spade on lots of well rotted manure/compost, fork this in and leave the rest to the worms. -
Message 10
Posted by bogus the fungi man (U14705597) on Wednesday, 5th January 2011
It's worth keeping in mind that should you be thinking of growing some root veg, especially carrot and parsnips, it may be beneficial to dig but not incorporate any compost or manure in the area you intend to sow. Just in case there's still some nutrients left by the time you sow which could cause the roots to fork.
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Message 11
Posted by whatalottie (U9072847) on Wednesday, 5th January 2011
Thanks all of you, really good ideas, I didn't realise I was digging so badly!
I'd add that I usually use a fork to dig, only a spade to make trenches for beans etc.
I seems to me that a spade will break up any perennial weeds and multiply them a hundredfold! All I realy want to do, on our rather light soil, is aerate it and dig in manure, (if I'm not leaving it on the surface). Does anyone else have any views?
The other thing I thought as I practiced in front of a mirror was that I should use my legs more, moving hips and legs rather than my back when I'm tossing (on a low trajectory) soil to one side.
Oh and get into a nice easy rhythm.
I'm going to have to practice for longer in front of a mirror!
Any more tips?
Thanks Lottie -
Message 12
Posted by Palaisglide (U3102587) on Wednesday, 5th January 2011
Lottie,
Having read through the comments they do not appear to be what you are asking.
Firstly, think of a farmer ploughing ( I have done it), set the knife which cuts the soil then the blade of the plough turns the sod over on top of itself so no light gets to the weeds and they die, you set the depth of the blade to suit the soil be it light or heavy and it should just turn over on itself. A farmer cannot weed a complete field first.
My Fathers garden was soft top soil yet he used his spade then broke it with his fork later when it came to planting.
Manure was never spread on top but dug into the trench he dug with the spade and he only ever double dug the odd patch that had been allowed to lay fallow for a year (To rest).
I too use a long handle on the tools more so the Dutch Hoe it reaches further into the bed without walking on it.
Right down to work.
Get a balance spread your legs a little then cut down to the right, soft soil it will be a spade depth and with a good thrust from the shoulder the spade will go well down, then cut down to the left then chop down in front of you thus freeing up one spade width and depth sod, a flick of the wrist and arm turns it over and chop it up. (you spread you legs so you do not cut your toes off).
Put your brain out of gear, plan your next twenty first birthday party and keep on chopping down turning and chopping the sod until before you know it you are at the end of the row.
Now if you dig all the planting area in the Autumn after collecting your harvest of fresh food the winter frost will break up the soil to a fine tilth. All you then need to do is rake it level and with diligent use of the hoe your weeds vanish.
My way is to get the Hoe each morning and evening and as I walk round the garden hoe off any tiny green shoots, most will be weeds if you did not plant them.
Nobody ever claimed gardening is easy and the digging is the price we pay for the beauty we feast our eye's on later. If you dig most of the area in Autumn when it is cool then the digging is less of a chore and think of what you will save not joining a fit club.
Spring time is the time to dig the patches left, rake it all down sow your seed and KEEP ON TOP OF THE WEEDS with a hoe, the more weeds you get now the less you turn up when you dig later.
Hope this helps and do not think of the spade as anything but a friend, a very good friend it will not let you down.
Frank. -
Message 13
Posted by Calendula (U2331338) on Wednesday, 5th January 2011
Get a man in*
*other genders are available -
Message 14
Posted by Oldends (U13875463) on Wednesday, 5th January 2011
If you find digging with a normal spade hard going, try it with a so-called border spade, that's the smaller type. Trouble is they tend to come with shorter handles. Shop around, long handled ones are available.
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Message 15
Posted by Tee Gee (U10012255) on Wednesday, 5th January 2011
Check out this link, in particular the related links;
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Message 16
Posted by zygosis (U14742149) on Wednesday, 5th January 2011
Best tip I can give is - don't dig!
Just top dress in autumn with compost and let the worms do the work for you..... -
Message 17
Posted by marinelilium (U8293024) on Friday, 7th January 2011
I agree zygosis. If you have good, well-structured (or well-worked soil ) just hoe away weeds and lay your own compost on top when soil is 9degC or more. That's not only leaves worms to do the work but fungi, springtails, larvae and micro-organisms to do what they do best.
By the time they have broken down and released the nutrients there's enough daylight to start planting out in it.
The unlucky ones with poor soil, that will have to incorporate organic matter, grit, wood ash etc, should invest in a Lurgan spade. It is half the work because the leverage is better and kinder to your spinal muscles. If you have won the Lotto you could invest in a copper coated one!
I sharpen my spades on the cutting edge and spray with wd40 in November then put them in a bin liner for the winter. Frank's advice on your physical approach to digging - as ever - is sound advice.
MLx -
Message 18
Posted by bogus the fungi man (U14705597) on Friday, 7th January 2011
I've not seen the Lurgan spade before. Something else I've learned from this forum!
I use a Joseph Bentley long handled old English spade. They knew what was best all those years ago and it's still good today.
Other allotment holders have commented that it looks like a tool to make work hard... till I started to dig, then they walk quietly away. So much better than the modern spade.
Use this tool in conjunction with Palaisglide's advice and you should find digging less or a chore and more of a pleasure. -
Message 19
Posted by rini (U2365378) on Tuesday, 11th January 2011
A couple of weeks ago one of the panellist of Gardeners Questions Time Â鶹¹ÙÍøÊ×Ò³Èë¿Ú Radio 4 complained about short gardening tools. Apparently, the tools are based on mining tools which had to have short shafts as the miners were working underground. Due to lack of height they had to kneel therefore short shafts. One would think that more manufacturers of garden tools would have changed the design by now.
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Message 20
Posted by bogus the fungi man (U14705597) on Tuesday, 11th January 2011
Well I never! Thanks for that rini. That's why I now use the long handled tools because after using the short variety I usually end up on my knees!
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Message 21
Posted by Banjo Longbody (U13864842) on Thursday, 13th January 2011
I,ve just Googled Lurgan spades, what beautiful bits of kit!, well out of my price league but lovely nevertheless. When i had to dig my plot from scratch i used what i think is called an American spade. It too has a long shaft, no handle as such, and the blade is sort of triangular so the pointed end cut into very compacted soil with ease. Its funny how we gardeners,even if its too wet or cold or whatever to actually get out there and dig, will happily sit with other likeminded people just chatting about digging! Long may it continue.
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Message 22
Posted by marinelilium (U8293024) on Thursday, 13th January 2011
Hehehe ....just love that name Banjo Longbody!
Lots of companies call the long-shafted spades Irish shovels or even Cornish shovels. A well known DIY chain sells a wooden handled one for £21.98 but the one I really covet is the stainless steel shaft ..add another £100
Spear and Jackson used to do one with an ash handle (I think, not certain if it's still available).
(There has been a relaunch, with some improvements, of the automatic spade with a bigger foot lever and a stronger double spring for turning trenches. It was designed for people with serious back problems or upper body disabilities)
Some heavy duty spades weigh enough before they are even loaded with soil but the one I lust after has hollow, no-bend, stainless steel shaft so much easier on the arms and shoulders!
MLx
NB Bent knees are shock absorbers -
Message 23
Posted by Logissimo (U14020652) on Thursday, 13th January 2011
Digging? ...what's digging?
Have you thought about deep beds instead. Heavy initial investment in time, money and energy but the pleasure of only having to give each one a light forking over instead of the sweat of digging. Oh yes deep beds for ever!
Good luck and enjoy the digging if you must! -
Message 24
Posted by whatalottie (U9072847) on Friday, 14th January 2011
Hi,
Thanks for all the commetns.
What's a logan spade please? I assume it's long handled, but where would you get it?
I do think that buying the the weight and width of spade tho suit you is important. If you're small and not particularly strong a border spade is a good idea. I use a border spade, and fork, all the time. Although it doesn't take as much at one bite, I can motor through, whereas with a big one I can't do as much, and my back hurts the next day.
I saved up to get a stainless steel spade because it's lighter.
Thanks again,
Lottie
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