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Cauli and Broccilli problem

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Messages: 1 - 5 of 5
  • Message 1. 

    Posted by wendy (U14838922) on Tuesday, 2nd August 2011

    Hello,
    Could someone please tell me why over the last 2yrs both my cauli and broccilli heads start to grow then before you know it and heads not large they either die or flower?

    In the ground, watered, not in the same place as last year, cauli is covered with the leaves yet not good. When I say small heads I mean small wouldn't do one person a portion.

    Please help I love both these vegs.
    thanks
    wendy

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  • Message 2

    , in reply to message 1.

    Posted by Tee Gee (U10012255) on Tuesday, 2nd August 2011

    I can only guess at this one as there is so many unknowns!

    Firstly; Variety!!

    I prefer to use F1 varieties, because the results fron non F1's can be so variable.

    What varieties were they as a matter of interest?

    Initial growth is crucial as both don't like root disturbance, I prick out initalli into 3" pots and grow on in a cold frame to develop a rootball.

    I don't agree (at least to a point) of the firming the ground technique.

    I find if I prepare the ground pre winter all the necessary compaction is done prior to planting out,.

    Then after planting I flood the planted area to emulate winter weather action.

    Usually I don't have to water them again but some spring /early summers can be quite dry so I might occasioally water them.

    And that about it and I have success every year so much so because it all comes at one time I often have to give them away.

    I don't mind this with the Calabrese as the removal of the head encourages new growth (florets)

    These slide shows might help you for next year



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  • Message 3

    , in reply to message 2.

    Posted by wendy (U14838922) on Tuesday, 2nd August 2011

    thanks for that advice I have found some faults moving to bigger trays and then putting in final place way too early, not manured the area.

    question though why the armillatox and the lime?

    many thanks
    wendy

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  • Message 4

    , in reply to message 3.

    Posted by Tee Gee (U10012255) on Tuesday, 2nd August 2011

    I have found some faults moving to bigger trays and then putting in final place way too early,  

    I am not quite sure what you mean here.

    I sow my seed in either quarter trays or alternatively cell trays of a size suited to the number of plants I require.

    This link might help;

    not manured the area. 

    Manure is not essential for brassicas but it does aid moisture retention in the soil


    question though why the armillatox and the lime? 

    The armillatox deters root fly and I think it deters cabbage White butterflies.

    I think the smell deters them.

    Brassicas prefer a more alkaline soil than most vegetables and the lime helps to create this situation.

    I also find that by putting on the surface of the soil rather than raking / digging it in deters slugs and snails attacking the young seedlings.

    It would seem the slugs/snails do not like crossing it.


    This link might clarify these points.

    Note! Do not apply lime and manure at the same time as this can create a conflict in the soil which would be detrimental to the young plants. (see note in link)




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  • Message 5

    , in reply to message 4.

    Posted by Tee Gee (U10012255) on Tuesday, 2nd August 2011

    Sorry I forgot to add the 2nd link



    It is also said that armillatox helps to ward off club root but personally I think the lime (pH) is the most likely ingredient in the soil to prevent it.

    However if it does ward off club root this must be considered to be a bonus

    Report message5

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