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100% failure. Advice required.

• Message 1. 

  Posted by Kleftiwallah (U13700999) on Tuesday, 20th December 2011

  Last year during early winter, I took scions from apple trees, stored them over winter as informed on knowledgeable web pages and grafted them onto trees in early spring and had a 100% failure rate.
  
  This winter or early spring I'm going to try again but without keeping the scions in a bucket of compost as instructed. I'm going to take them and graft directly without waiting. My question is, do I do the deed now before winter hits, in the depths of winter, early spring or when I see actual growth in the tree to which I shall graft.
  
  So the question is when for the best chance of success? Over to you lot.
  
  Cheers, Tony.
  

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• Message 2

  , in reply to message 1.

  Posted by Obelixx (U2157162) on Tuesday, 20th December 2011

  The RHS website has infoon grafting scions and also propagation by budding. They are done at different times of year. See here - and follow the links to grafting and budding.

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• Message 3

  , in reply to message 1.

  Posted by Tee Gee (U10012255) on Tuesday, 20th December 2011

  To be quite honest Tony I have never done this before but my tuppence ha'porth would be 'Spring' when the sap is flowing!
  
  
  
  Re- your previous method I would have thought the compast would have contaminated the joint.
  
  Plus I think the grains of compost stuck to the scion would prevent contact to the root stock rather than make the contact you need.
  
  I look upon it like a cut finger, if you have a dirty wound it wont heal!
  
  Thats just mho.
  
  
  Best of luck Tg

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• Message 4

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  Posted by Kleftiwallah (U13700999) on Tuesday, 20th December 2011

  Thanks for that Tg.
  
  The scions I had stored on compost were cut and shaped to insert in the cut in the tree branch so no compost.
  
  Cheers, Tony.

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• Message 5

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  Posted by bookertoo (U3655866) on Thursday, 22nd December 2011

  I always understood that grafts had to be kept scrupously clean, if n0thing else, any bits would prevent the two cut edges from close contact. When I saw it done it was in early spring just as the sap started to rise, sterile knives were used, the graft was bound tightly with tape (it looked like electrical tape but I could not swear to that) and then treated as any other yung shrub - i.e. well watered and cared for. Even then, 100% success was not the case, but a good number would take and grow away. Keeping the graft tight and protected seemed to be the most important thing as far as I can recall. Maybe the ideas have changed since then, but as someone else said, a skin or bone graft is kept tight and sterile, suspect the same ideas would apply to plants. Good luck.

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• Message 6

  , in reply to message 5.

  Posted by Kleftiwallah (U13700999) on Thursday, 22nd December 2011

  Thanks for your encouraging reply. Cheers, Tony.

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• Message 7

  , in reply to message 1.

  Posted by Trillium (U2170869) on Thursday, 22nd December 2011

  After a winter apple tree pruning session two years ago, I wrapped bundles of scion material tightly in carrier bags and stored them in a fridge.
  
  Two months later they were in perfect condition, just needed the bottom snipped off. However, I never quite got round to grafting with them - but think they would have been viable if I had.
  
  I don't know where you live, but Reaseheath College near Nantwich often host grafting workshop sessions run by the marvellous Harry Delaney. Well worth the trip.

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• Message 8

  , in reply to message 7.

  Posted by whatalottie (U9072847) on Monday, 2nd January 2012

  You might try bud grafting. There's a very good website;
  
  
  
  You do it in the summer.
  
  Good luck,
  Lottie

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