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Buyer's guide

Arguably the best cods鈥� roe comes from Iceland. It is blanched before smoking, so choose one that feels firm to the touch. Fresh cods鈥� roe is available during the early months of the year when the fish is spawning; poached and smoked cods鈥� roe is sold year round. Canned cods鈥� roe is also available and can be sliced and fried.

Preparation

Smoked cods鈥� roe is used to make taramasalata, although it鈥檚 traditionally made with smoked grey mullet roe. For taramasalata, the membrane surrounding the smoked roe needs to be peeled away and discarded; the roe is then mashed with garlic, lemon juice, olive oil and breadcrumbs to make a rich paste. Fresh roe is usually poached, then sliced, rolled in egg and breadcrumbs, and fried. It is also popular deep-fried (buy it from fish and chip shops).

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