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麻豆官网首页入口 Two Food Season Special: Try Something New

Joe Wadsack

Lovely food again. Tom’s dish reminded me if Middle Eastern cuisine, like tagine and the like. Despite the fact that the sweet, delicate meat of a spring lamb seems to go with all fine red wines, there is one region that I visited last year that sprung to mind when I thought of the title of this episode. Lebanon. It is a shame that they have such troubles at present, because they are finally coming of age as a truly world class performer on the world stage. One or two estates aren’t enough, but Lebanon has at least a dozen serious players in the wine scene now, sadly not well known here yet.

Joe and Tom with Glynn
Alsace white wines are richly textured and the lack of rainfall in the region concentrates the natural flavours
Joe Wadsack

Tom’s mint crusted rack of lamb

1. Cadet de Ka 2011 Bekaa Valley, Lebanon (£9 Marks and Spencer)

Considering how expensive it is to grow and make wine in this country, this is a truly amazing effort. The dry arid, high altitude plain of the Bekaa Valley can produce superb, concentrated red wines capable of ageing for decades. This entry into the world or Bekaa reds shows quite what is possible in this amazing place. It is a blend of Rh么ne and Bordeaux varieties, and tastes rather like a cross between a Southern French red and a dry grown Bordeaux blend from Mclaren Vale in Australia. Wines twice this price rarely have as much flavour and character as this one. It also seems in its comfort zone paired with aubergine and lamb. The combination smells of Beirut. In a very, very good way.

2. Bodegas Sarria San Antolin 2004 Reserva Navarra Spain (£10 Waitrose)

Rioja, in fact any Tempranillo based wines, are a shoe-in with spiced lamb. What makes this wine so exciting is that it is ten years old. It appears that Spain is the last place where you can easily buy mature wines for a fair price. Any equivalent Bordeaux would have doubled or even tripled in price. Navarra is slightly cooler, climactically than Rioja. This is mature, smooth and classy, like expensive Bordeaux.

3. Cortes de Cima 2011 Alentejo (£12.50 Oddbins)

This is a remarkable wine. It seems expensive but tastes like wine that is much pricier. This is a miraculous vintage, having just the right condition in virtually the whole of the country to make beautifully crafted wines. This has the backbone of wine from Ribera del Duero in Spain with a delicious sweet sour freshness that I associate with the Italian wines of Tuscany. Still in its youth, this wine comes alive with a mouthful of lamb.

Glynn’s spiced cauliflower with toasted coconut & red lentils

Glynn threw a curve ball with this dish, combining vegetal flavours with the sourness of the pickled carrot and yoghurt, and a kick of chilli. Delicious but a tricky wine match.

1. Cave de Beblenheim Pinot Gris Reserve 2012/2013 Alsace (£10.50 Waitrose)

Alsace white wines are richly textured and the lack of rainfall in the region concentrates the natural flavours. Pinot Gris is actually a pale red grape variety with small grapes. This is an amazingly succulent wine for the money, and would be just at home with pork belly or roast turkey. The aromatic herby aromas go with dense aromas of roasted cauliflower as well as the myriad of flavours.

2. Palataia Pinot Grigio 2012/13 Pfalz, Germany (£8.49 Marks & Spencer)

An amazingly vivid and bright example of the same grape variety from southern Germany. It is fresher, zippier, but equally classy, and works better with the tangy elements in the food.

3. Stella Alpina Pinot Grigio 2013 Alto Adige (£8.99 Majestic)

There’s Italian Pinot Grigio, the there’s Italian Pinot Grigio. Most people have only tried the industrial, ‘2 for a tenner’ supermarket wines with almost no taste. This is mouth-watering, orangey and full of juicy fresh pear fruit. Once you open the bottle, you’ll finish it. Be warned!

Mint crusted rack of lamb
Cadet de Ka 2011 Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
Spiced cauliflower with toasted coconut & red lentils
Cave de Beblenheim Pinot Gris Reserve 2012/2013 Alsace

Joe's drink choices