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Alexandra Tolstoy journeys to the area around Jerez in Andalucia, where she discovers a world behind the tourist image of Spain. She has a lesson in dressage technique, which she says is the best hour she has ever had horseriding, and meets a family who excel in fighting bulls from horseback. Alexandra also learns how artificial insemination and even surrogate motherhood are now used in horsebreeding.

At the Jerez horsefair, she finds herself transformed into a true Spanish lady and finally she undertakes a remarkable horseback religious pilgrimage. The culture Alexandra finds is proud, colourful and traditional - yet full of surprises.