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If it hadn鈥檛 been for Pyotr Tchaikovsky鈥檚 love of jam, he may never have completed his first large-scale work. After graduating from the Conservatory of St Petersburg, the 26-year-old started composing his first symphony, 鈥榃inter Daydreams鈥�, but quickly ran out of steam.

鈥淣o other work cost him such effort and suffering鈥� its composition was fraught with difficulty,鈥� recalled his younger brother Modest.

A school friend came to the rescue. The poet, Aleksey Apukhtin, suggested a visit to the monastery island of Valaam in Lake Ladoga near St Petersburg for some fresh ideas. Tchaikovsky refused but was lured on board a ship by the promise of delicious jam from the buffet. The trip inspired the symphony鈥檚 second movement 鈥楪loomy Land, Misty Land鈥� with its haunting oboe that seems to echo over the Ladoga waters like a hymn.

Founded in the 14th century, Valaam was a northern outpost of the Eastern Orthodox Church against pagans. Tchaikovsky was deeply entranced by its ancient monastery鈥檚 unique a cappella style of singing called Znamenny Chant. Throughout his life he was at once immensely drawn to church services and at the same time tormented by contradictions in his faith. His search for inner peace is reflected in his Liturgy of St John Chrysostom and the All-Night Vigil.

This Sunday Feature interweaves Tchaikovsky鈥檚 music with Apukhtin鈥檚 poem, A Year in a Monastery as well as the composer's letters. Just like Tchaikovsky, Lucy Ash ends up staying on Valaam for longer than expected due to a ferocious autumn storm on Europe鈥檚 biggest lake. There she meets Brother Maxim, a young monk and a former import trader, and Father David, the head of a remote skete, or settlement of Orthodox monks, who happens to be a professionally trained jazz musician.

Producer Tatyana Movshevich