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Nothing nondescript about Sri Lanka

Adam Mountford | 11:54 UK time, Saturday, 17 November 2007

England's tour of Sri Lanka got under way this morning with a practice session at what is called the here in Colombo.

Nondescript is not a word you normally associate with this amazing pearl shaped island cast adrift in the Indian ocean. This is my second visit to Sri Lanka, having first come here in 2003 to produce Test Match Special's coverage of the series and I immediately fell in love with the place.

The palm-fringed beaches, dramatic monuments and widely different landscapes make this a fantastic place to come to and I consider myself very fortunate to be working in such marvellous surroundings.

However, this is not an island without its troubles. Sri Lanka has had to come to terms with the devastating effects of the 2004 , which killed 30,000 people and destroyed huge swathes of the coastland, and the recent return of violence in parts of the country.

What the country is united about is its love of cricket and here. Four years ago, England bravely hung on to draw the first two Test matches in Galle and Kandy before finally being worn down by the heat and the skill of the Sri Lankan team in Colombo.

This year's tour begins here with two warm-up matches in the capital before we move to the Asgiriya stadium in Kandy for the first Test.

Kevin Pietersen and Phil Mustard in the nets

Having arrived here on Friday, I feel jet-lagged and tired and not quite sure where I am or what time it is. You have to be very careful when you are feeling like this.

Four years ago on my first day of the tour in Colombo myself and commentators John Murray and Jonny Saunders went for a walk along the sea front which took a rather unexpected turn.

I was wandering down the road minding my own business when I noticed John and Jonny getting into one of the city's numerous three-wheeled rickshaw taxis or "" as they are known. They beckoned me over and said I had to get in because the driver was going to take us to a special religious festival only taking place that day.

Not feeling at my most switched on, I suspended my normal suspicious mind-set and got in. The driver then proceeded to tell us that he actually worked at the reception of the hotel where we were staying, but was on a day off and was willing to share with us a special experience.

Today he told us was the only day of he year where we could visit a temple in the city to see a unique religious artefact. "All the people you see walking on the pavement are all going to see this today," he told us.

We then pulled up at what was clearly not Colombo's premier temple and I was starting to become more and more cynical about what John and Jonny had agreed to, but it was too late to pull out so we took off our shoes and went inside.

Our guide then took us to a small dusty room full of cobwebs and what looked like a heap of junk. He then excitedly opened a small cabinet to reveal the item which he told us would take our breath away. In a small pink dusty pot was a tiny white object which he announced was "part of the tooth of ".

By this stage I was feeling more and more suspicious. "So this artefact can only be viewed by the public today?" I asked. "It is not on show at any other time." "No sir," he replied.

"So if I came back here tomorrow you could not show me this?" I asked. Our guide paused for a moment and then answered "For you, sir, I will be able to show this to you again tomorrow."

As we left the temple we all had to pay a substantial "donation" to the upkeep of the temple followed by a extortionate demand for the cost of our "Tuk-Tuk" trip. We had been well and truly had - but the trip may have had an amazing longer-term effect on our lives.

During the course of our tour of the temple John, Jonny and myself were all invited to drink from a "fountain of fertility". We thought nothing of it at the time, but just over 12 months later we all became fathers.

And the due dates for our babies were in exactly the same week .

I've already told our team in Colombo for this tour to be especially careful where they drink from.

°ä´Ç³¾³¾±ð²Ô³Ù²õÌýÌýPost your comment

  • 1.
  • At 12:29 PM on 17 Nov 2007,
  • fawad wrote:

awwwwwwwwww cute ariticle reali lankans r reali nice and that place too

  • 2.
  • At 02:17 PM on 17 Nov 2007,
  • Abdullah's Friend wrote:

Adam my friend, it is so nice article! I am going to Lanka. :)

  • 3.
  • At 04:25 PM on 17 Nov 2007,
  • Bal Bazra wrote:

How hot is it over there at the moment? I hope you've got enough deodorant, Mr Mountford.

  • 4.
  • At 05:30 PM on 17 Nov 2007,
  • Devsiri wrote:

Adam
The Tooth of Buddha is in kandy Srilanka and it never leave The Temple of Toothet. Millions come to see Kandy Perehara in August which you must have heard of.
Yes I agree that you and other two colleagues of yours had been taken for a ride ( Pardon the pun). There are no Biddha;s tooth in Colombo.

Could you please remeber which temple you visited to see this "Tooth". Do you think the priest os the temple was a part of this hoax or do you think he was an onnocent party.

I am interested to follow this up bit more and write an amusing and factual article to a leading Srilankan paper to make sure this wont happen again.

As you said Srilanka is a trukly wonderful country. Hope you will have a great time there , Please dont be upset when Murali will take England to clearners . Watch out for Jayasooriya in Galle. That would be his final good bye to test cricket and I am sure he will leave the scence with all the guns blazing
Cheers
Devsiri
London

  • 5.
  • At 07:15 PM on 17 Nov 2007,
  • Richard Hamilton wrote:

Call me a cynic, but was the due date for the babies 9 months on from the week you got back from Sri Lanka?!

I was lucky enough to be at the Kandy and Colombo Tests on the 2001 Tour, and see some of that fantastic country. Enjoy.

  • 6.
  • At 08:41 PM on 17 Nov 2007,
  • Daniel Fernandes wrote:

I personally cannot wait for the Test series to start. Since the ODI series there I have also been wondering about dogs. What are the chances of dogs invading the pitch during the Test matches England are playing?

  • 7.
  • At 10:41 PM on 17 Nov 2007,
  • Abdullah's Friend wrote:

Daniel Fernandes,
My friend, chances of dogs invading the pitch during the Test matches in Sri Lanka are as much as sex in the stadium during a test match in UK! :) ... "Won't happen but you never know" scenario!!! And if it does happen, some one from the fielding side should get into race with da dog and win it so that dog will get humiliated and will not come back to the ground!!! :)

  • 8.
  • At 11:56 PM on 17 Nov 2007,
  • krishan canagasabey wrote:

Nondescript is not a word you normally associate with this Island of state terror. Nor are the cricket clubs, hence, the birth of the only club that made it a point to be Nondescript rather than, singhalese sports club (SSC), Tamil Union, Burger rec. club (BRC), Moors (muslim cricket club), Malay cricket club, etc, etc.. You woould then think do sri lankan watch cricket together, NOOOOOO, only in their own specific communities. Great island, haaaa!

  • 9.
  • At 09:35 AM on 18 Nov 2007,
  • RS wrote:

The powers of the artefact are working...it has removed the word t from the the year...Soon this website will carsh!

  • 10.
  • At 01:01 PM on 18 Nov 2007,
  • Roshan Shrestha wrote:

Once again English team is always at the recieving end in the test cricket tecord history.They are the team against whom Brian Lara made 400,against whom Warne got his 700th wicket and certainly murali will break his record against England.That's so pity.Let's hope that the English team will win there despite murali.

  • 11.
  • At 10:12 AM on 19 Nov 2007,
  • kodi wrote:

Adam, The tuk tuk driver has conned you. I am ashamed & do apologise on behalf of Sri Lankans. A very rare thing to happen. Report him to the hotel management if he has any connection with the hotel.
You will be amazed by the friendly welcome you will receive, beautiful beaches & breath taking cultural sites. As in everywhere in the world, there will always be the unavoidable odd con artist. Enjoy your visit.

  • 12.
  • At 12:12 PM on 19 Nov 2007,
  • Nick wrote:

I was in Sri Lanka with six other guys last month for the ODI series, It was fantastic.
I wish I was going back for the Test series.
The country is beautiful and the people are really friendly.
We stayed in Bentota and every over day we would play beach cricket with the local lads.
Great memories to help me get through the cold english weather.
R.Premadasa in Colombo was a fantastic atmosphere, credit to the Sri Lankan fans.

Lets hope England can repeat there sucess there from last month and win the Test Series.

  • 13.
  • At 04:23 PM on 19 Nov 2007,
  • Hotwind wrote:

Adam,

You managed to conveniently overlook all the problems in these "paradise island" eh? So Sri Lanka only had to come to terms with tsunami? What about killings and disappearances?

  • 14.
  • At 05:22 PM on 19 Nov 2007,
  • damion wrote:

Mr Canagasabey seem to have a hangover of sorts. Let me tell you something, take your thoughts elsewhere.

Barmy Army, bring it on!!! Coz we are looking forward to a good series!!

  • 15.
  • At 05:43 PM on 19 Nov 2007,
  • John wrote:

Well done Adam on a fantastic read.

However, I have read on many sources (mainly subcontinental news sources) that Galle Stadium may not be ready for the English by the 3rd Test due to some torrential rains. Is this still true, and if so, has there been any announcements as to which location has been chosen for the replacement venue?

  • 16.
  • At 01:42 PM on 20 Nov 2007,
  • Magodiya wrote:

Nick is right about SL - great place to visit for a test series.
Don't forget the great food on offer in all test venues - esp Colombo (I mean restaurants). The Barmy Army would be having a ball and selling their t-shirts!
Be careful of tuk-tuk drivers though - they are all into nefarious activites. Useful if you are into wine, women etc yourself.
Malaria won't be a problem in the test venues - but be careful of mosquitoes causing Dengue, ChikenGunya viral fevers which can knock you for a six!
Hopefully the rain will not interfere - although I am sure England might need such a divine intervention!

  • 17.
  • At 03:09 PM on 20 Nov 2007,
  • Adrian wrote:

I've had the same experience of the "hotel staff" on a day off taking me to the temple! But he was was not happy when I opened my wallet and I only had few hundred rupees in it!

I was at the Premadasa stadium for the ODI series win; great day, apart from the fact that I couldn't find a beer. How can you watch 9 hours of cricket without a beer?? Did anyone manage to find a beer there??

Hopefully I'll be back in SL for one of the test matches; can't wait!

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